Chemical Guys GAP11516 Headlight Restore and Shield, (Nice for Automobiles, Vehicles, SUVs, RVs, Bikes, & Extra) 16 fl oz

Let there be light…….
I’ve been using this product for a while, but have never written a review.This product does work, and in the world of “Polishes” and trying to figure out which grade or grit you need, this is nice cause it’s just the right grit rating to do a complete job relatively easily.To Start:PREP0: Open the hood of our car or truck, that ensures you get the best access to the headlight lens, including the top.PREP1:Obviously make sure the lens is clean, which you can do just using window cleaner or after you washed the car or took to the car wash.PREP2: You want to remove the first line of “Haze” here’s a trick, use WD40 or Ballistol.. Simply spray it onto a microfiber cloth and wipe down, you’ll notice it takes off a layer, but not ENOUGH to make the lens clear, but it DOES help and sort of “Pre lubes” the surface a bit.—Note — IF the lenses are severely oxidized, like it’s very rough and pitted to the touch, and almost completely faded out, you may need to do a wetsand prep using something like a 3000/5000/7000 grit sandpaper, THEN start the Chemical Guys’ polishing routine with this product. This product won’t remove that harsh first layer of oxidation, or it will take forever, as it’s a very medium to medium fine polish. If you have to wetsand first, use a spray bottle of distilled water, wet the lens thoroughly, then first go with 3000 and work up to 5000 and maybe 7000, constantly lubing with water and wiping off the excess with a clean towel. After you go through the 3 stages then apply this Chemical Guys’ polish routine. But, for most people they won’t have to do this. But if you have to do this, prep3 is critical below: Masking.PREP3: TAPE: It’s best to get some blue or green painters type masking tape and tape off the light from the painted areas of the car. Don’t over think it, it’s not like you’re painting anything, you just want to mask off the painted areas from the headlight to keep the bonnet from bumping the paint. And from the material getting into areas you don’t want to..PREP4: HAND POLISH: If you’re using a foam bonnet or a microfiber bonnet (or a towel) this will take longer, but you have more control of the “product” and it doesn’t fling off. Simply put some on your foam bonnet and polish it in. Keep working it, and sometimes you can have a spray bottle of water to lubricate it a bit, and continue to work it in. Wipe it off, try a second coat doing the same procedure. Remove the tape, Let it DRY, then use a clean cotton cloth to remove the excess.. Cotton will not create the static like Microfiber does and it won’t remove any protect layers of the product, leaving it treated, as this Chemical Guys’ headlight restorer does have a UV protectant in it. If you don’t have a cotton cloth, that’s okay, just don’t press too hard, just lightly buff it and remove the haze.. Voila.. Clear.PREP4A: MACHINE POLISHER. If you’re using a rotary polisher, whether it’s a large bonnet type designed to polish, or a smaller one, like a special tool that holds a 3″ flat bonnet, or a smaller bonnet (Like the ones you use on Drills, the round type) you have to be a little more careful applying the product as it’ll fling off and make sort of a mess. So you put it on the flat or round bonnet, spread it around on the bonnet and the lens and SLOWLY work it in, don’t go full blast or you could possibly burn the plastic or the paint surrounding the headlight.. So you want to be careful not to hit the painted areas. HENCE the masking.Work it in slowly, and then gradually increase the speed.. You don’t have to press real hard, as that just makes the bonnet lose control a bit.. Just a nice light pressure and allow the rotary device to do the work. Also, you can rest assured your polishing bonnet has probably absorbed some of the material, especially by the time you get to the 2nd headlight. That being said, you can continue to polish a bit without having to apply more product. This product seems to not dry too quickly and has a slight oily texture to it so you can work it in looking as though you don’t always have to have a fresh “Haze” of the product on the light lens.. Again, if the bonnet is fairly saturated with product you should be good. Again, like above, you can also spray some water on it and continue you on that way as well. Be sure to avoid hitting the painted masked areas as much as possible, bumping them slightly won’t really hurt it, but when you’re increasing the speed just be sure to avoid them, you don’t want to “burn” the paint.Remove the tape, let the product dry to a haze, and slightly wipe clean with a cotton or microfiber towel.Tip: I buy high quality paint brushes, like 2″, 3″ wide, the stubby kinds, which are great for after a procedure like this to wipe around the light lenses, to get any chalked product out. If you have an air compressor that’s a bonus too. Just use the brush around the edges, then hit it with an air compressor.. Should look great.Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-Q3211-2-Shortcut-Paintbrush/dp/B099KL78FB/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.SUZ3kYDsniTGpWjAgfwOX1LQJ_Yq8wMpc0b83Zaw7faaGpmqa2xEHA1lQlXw8WCpNNesowQGa4tnPmKzSFUxH4WeQ-PxOS2JiXDG5OTNhlJEeCY26NFkoXBmclsJqhfi_V40EU8qRkS1Ma1pG7dJj_YrBToUPaKAtvF_K_rStd0c9Nw1bx6ZzDcodmc5RYwWr35jsUugVCnPN4B1GPu0DDxfKqTf9zxIzakWAGvtjGiZbORcA_bS276zEYyIe-AowBrSuZC0KrZ29lePdIzQagGLolWCuvOC7LTBLINBWe4.wRl7tSfIBoecdoW846dL8XItJGA-99c2tpA8mgHC09c&dib_tag=se&keywords=stubby+paint+brushes&qid=1733415295&sr=8-6

Worked great
I used it on my Porsche Cayenne after using many others that fell short. Easy to use

Headlights restored!
My car has had issues with fogginess and yellowing on the headlights. I decided to give this product a try and I must say I am super pleased with the results! I used a random orbital polisher and I feel that is definitely a must for the best results.There was a noticable difference in the brightness of my headlights after being polished. Didn’t really realize how bad they had gotten.One thing to keep in mind is you’ll need to put something on the headlights to keep them from going foggy/yellow again. I did not the first time I polished them and they did discolor again. I had a friend install clear PPF and it has worked great to maintain the clarity from the polish.Would highly recommend this product!

Se limpió todo lo amarillo a la 1er pasada excelente producto, huele bien, deja una capa brillante

Okay… so you’ve been surfing for a headlight restoration kit, and you see all these products that want you to do all kinds of sanding and polishing to restore your headlights. I have used a kit like that before–and it does the job. However, it takes a lot of work, and if you’re not careful you can damage your headlight lens. I wanted something that could be used without sanding, and I ended up here.The process is dead simple… Put some of the product (which has a creamy texture) onto a microfiber cloth or similar, and then rub it on the lens. Once it has been worked in, use a clean cloth to remove any excess, and to polish the lens. Total time is 5 minutes.I’m attaching images from two vehicles I treated. One is a Ford Freestar (2007), the other is a Honda Civic (2009). I literally spent 5 minutes on each lens. If you have a buffer, that would be handy, but it’s not essential. I did this on a sunny day, so that the lenses would be ‘warm’. While I don’t know if it matters, it certainly doesn’t hurt.What I did notice was that the product worked best on lenses that were physically smooth. It’s hard to see in the images, but the Freestar lens had more ‘abrasion’ marks, and didn’t clean up as well. The smoother the lens, the better the outcome was. So if your lens has a lot of scratches on it, the performance of the product may not be as good. As for longevity, I have no idea, since I only did this a couple weeks ago. However, I’ve driven in the rain, and the lenses are still as good as they were when I applied it.In the end, it was certainly worth the money I spent for it–if for nothing more than the convenience of not spending a couple hours sanding my headlights. This is not a product for someone who wants ‘perfection’ though. The result is very good, but I suspect a kit with sandpaper would be able to get them 10% clearer. However, if you just want to get your lenses clear, you’ll likely be happy with the performance of this product.

The product had no seal and manufacturing date was more then two years old so doubt if it was a genuine product